Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Keep Calm and Carry On

It's been a wild last few days in London.
On Saturday morning I walked out to Waterloo Bridge to say one final goodbye to this city that I've been lucky enough to live in for the past fifteen weeks. Snow was pouring from the sky, making a picture-perfect setting on the Thames. Looking back, it was a dumb decision not to bring my camera. Then I went back to the apartment, took my suitcases, and hopped a tube train to the airport. After almost four months of exploring, I was heading home. Or so I thought.

The tube whisked me under central London and emerged from the tunnel, cruising past the suburban landscape of London's outer boroughs. Three stops from the airport, the train stopped at Hounslow Central. It did not move again. There was a signal failure. All passengers had to exit the train and catch a bus a few blocks down. I grabbed my bags and left the train, but forgot my umbrella.

The 111 bus doesn't stop too far from Hounslow Central tube stop, but it seemed like miles away when the sidewalks weren't shoveled and there's snow and ice everywhere. Eventually, with two bags in tow, I arrived at the bus stop, where a bus with a destination sign reading "Heathrow Airport Central" promptly pulled up. Unfortunately, the bus was extremely crowded and I had to carry my bags to the upper deck, but since this would be my last ride on a London double decker, I didn't mind. The bus slowly wound its way through the snow-covered streets of the London suburbs, passing cars that had spun out on the slippery streets and miserable-looking Londoners trudging through the wintry weather.

Just a few stops short of the airport, an automated message told everyone to exit the bus. It was still snowing. I didn't know where I was, but I figured another bus would come along shortly. It didn't. I started walking in the same direction the bus had been traveling. I had left my apartment four hours before the flight was scheduled to leave in case something went wrong, but I was starting to get nervous. I left enough of a buffer for one thing to go wrong, not two or three.

After a very long time of running through the London sidewalks in the snow, I reached the barbed wire fence that bordered the outer edges of the airport. I didn't hear any jet engines running, so I thought flights must have been delayed for the snow. Still, with my luck, I was nervous that mine would be the one flight that left on time and it would leave without me.

The right bus finally arrived. It was extremely crowded. My drenched shoes made a puddle on the floor. The bus stopped at the airport just twenty minutes before my flight was scheduled to leave. I pulled out my passport and boarding pass, grabbed my bags, and ran for the check-in counter, dropping my passport in the process. When I arrived at the terminal, there was a massive crowd of tired-looking travelers sitting on baggage. Some were near tears. It was at this moment when I realized I lost my passport. I began to panic.

I tried to retrace my steps and find the passport, but the mob of passengers was so thick I could not get through to where I had just walked and I could not see the floor. I pulled out my credit card and paid an insane $23 for WiFi use at the airport. I thought I would never see that passport again, so I looked up information on the US Embassy to find out how to get another one. The US Embassy opened on Monday at 8:00 AM. It was 5:30 PM on Saturday. I called my parents and told them I didn't have a passport.

Unfortunately, I was too frazzled to take a camera out in the airport and capture the sight of thousands of stranded passengers bunking down on the floor for the night, so here's a picture someone else took of the scene.

I sat on my suitcase, where a stranded Canadian girl asked me how I got the WiFi. I told her the price was too high, but I was desperate. She told me her flight was canceled, saying 'about' ['aboot'] and 'out' ['oot'] with a Canadian accent. I bit my lip to stop myself from smiling. Then I waited in a line at the information booth, where a good person, for whom I am very thankful, had picked up my passport and brought it there for safe keeping. Passport in hand, I was ready to check in and go home. The flight had not left yet due to the snow, so it was possible I could still make it home.

Almost immediately after I arrived at the check-in area, it was announced that my flight was canceled. The airport was closed because of the snow storm. NYU study abroad students were all around me now, many of them very distraught. I was happy to have my passport and hung around the airport. All trains out of the airport were stopped as well, so no one could return to central London. The hotels at the airport were full. The airport was full, so full that the police were making people wait outside in the snow and ice because allowing any more passengers in would be a fire hazard. Those lucky enough to be inside the terminal curled up and went to sleep for the night. The NYU students and I sat on our luggage and waited, lost and unsure of what to do.

Eventually the tube re-opened. Unsure where else to turn, we hopped a train back to the apartment and asked to be allowed back into the dorms.

Emotions ran high back at the apartment, where everyone was frantically trying to rebook a flight. Everyone, myself included, have been booked on several flights these last few days and have spent several hours on hold on the phone with airlines trying to rebook flights. It has been nearly impossible to leave this country for days, and today is the first day things seem to be clearing up, even though there are a number of delays at all airports. There are few empty seats on the planes that do fly out. My current plan calls for catching a flight tomorrow (Thursday, five days after my scheduled departure) to Orlando and then dashing to catch a connection into Hartford. It will be a hectic day.

There's an article about all of this here.

Despite all this chaos, I have had high spirits through this whole experience. While my friends have been panicking, crying, and frantically calling parents, I have been enjoying a few extra days in London in between the long phone calls on hold with Virgin Atlantic. I know I am lucky to have a place to stay, since many have been sleeping on the floor of Heathrow since Saturday night. I am lucky to have been studying in London, since many travelers got trapped in Heathrow trying to make a connection for days with no luggage and no place to sleep, as all hotels are full.

Since the flight was canceled, I have been taking advantage of my extra days in London. I've had a great time this entire semester, so I don't see why things should be much different now. No one else seems to share my good attitude, however. I am surrounded by angry students who just want to get home. While I understand their frustration, I won't let their negativity ruin my good time.

When I left for London, I wanted an adventure. I never expected an adventure like this.

Saturday, December 18, 2010

Tuesday, December 14, 2010

Wish You Were Here

Big Ben, one last time. Love the lighting on this one.
I took my last final this afternoon. I am free.

Now I have a few days to enjoy London and see everything one last time before I go home on Saturday. It's soon. I'm excited to go back to the United States, but not nearly as excited as I was to leave.

Last week I was sick. Yeah, it was bad. And I thought I was going to make it through the entire semester without getting sick once. Who did I think I was kidding?

Last week I also made a list of everything I wanted to do before leaving London that I hadn't done yet. I've been doing the things on that list, like going to the Tate Britain museum and visiting the Christmas festival at Hyde Park, and now the only thing left to do is walk across the crosswalk at Abbey Road.

Thursday of last week was when I was sickest. It was also the day of the protests. Thousands of students who are angry over the conservative government's removal of the price cap on public universities stormed Parliament Square, clashing with police and making international headlines. The UK's public universities are now the most expensive in the world. On Friday, when I passed Parliament Square on my way to visit the Tate Britain, the area was a fence graveyard, and mangled metal fences were stacked five feet high all around the square, litter thrown in between them, as a result of the unrest the day before.

Last week was my last day at the SHINE school. The class gave a formal thank you, complete with a card, and the teacher really seemed to appreciate my help. I was sad to see the class go, since, despite the awfully early morning, SHINE has been one of the best parts of this European experience. I've been stocking up on Cadbury chocolate and thinking about how I'm going to pack all this stuff and take it on the plane. It won't be long now.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Leaving Europe... for the weekend.

This morning I woke up at 5:15 and I'm not sure why. When I woke up, though, I heard a bunch of men singing in Arabic in the distance. In Muslim countries, men are called to the mosque to pray five times a day by a raspy horn that sounds throughout the respective city or town. I guess 5:00 AM must be one of these times, as these religious songs went on for another half hour before quickly dying out. It was very different being in a place so devoted to religion. But different is what I wanted-and expected-when I decided to visit Africa for the weekend.

Marrakesh, Morocco is a lively city in northern Africa. It's made of narrow pathways surrounded by buildings made of clay with stalls selling traditional clothing and hats and jewelry and hookah qalyans and all sorts of other interesting trinkets. One man even carved me and my friend a good luck charm out of wood with his feet and then wrote our names on it in Arabic.
Stop sign in Arabic.
At the center of Marrakesh is Djemaa el Fna, the main square. The square is always filled with activity. During the day, snake charmers control their cobras and acrobats perform stunts. At night, the food stalls open, sending smoke toward the clear, star-filled night sky as the cooks serve up chicken and beef on skewers peppered with Morocco's famous spices.
Me standing at Djemaa el Fna.
Yesterday we rode camels around a park at the edge of town. The camel was tall and the ride was bumpy, but it was a unique experience. In the park there was a pond filled with these giant fish that liked eating the bread that the locals fed them. There were also a lot of really small, cute kittens that looked hungry, so we fed them. I didn't expect cats to be part of the wildlife in Morocco!
Cat in front of a market stall at Djemaa el Fna.
One of my favorite sites on the internet, darkroastedblend.com, features a photo series called "Lords of Logistics," which shows odd, excessively elaborate solutions to seemingly simple problems such as moving large loads from one end of a less-than-developed town to another. Sometimes, in less developed areas of the world, these homemade feats of engineering are the only ways to move people and goods around. In Marrakesh, it was not uncommon for three or more people to be seen riding on one dirty, old motorcycle. Donkeys pulled carts on the exhaust-filled streets alongside the old taxis and cars. To tourists, these seem like relics leftover from an earlier time before trucks and mass transit. The people of Marrakesh, however, see these as regular means of transport.

Two people carrying a large load on a motorcycle.
I miss Marrakesh's weather. It was 75 and sunny yesterday, in sharp contrast to London's consistent 35 and overcast.

This evening I rode a bike for the first time in a month. The 'Barclay's cycle hire,' the city's bike sharing program, opened to non-UK residents on Friday. I rode under the Oxford Street Christmas lights. It was nice to feel the rush of the city from the seat of a bicycle for a change, even though it's chilly now.